...is how most days should end. I am currently on beautiful Cat Ba island, taking full advantage of the rare holiday from various kinds of work (it is a public holiday here in Vietnam). How to describe Cat Ba? Beautiful? Stunning? Amazing? Ethereal? Ahhh, the words and photos (my photos anyway) won't do it justice, but let's just say: it's definitely easy on the eye. It seems I have wifi here this morning (I'm staying out in the middle of nowhere at an Eco Lodge with no phone reception and hit and miss wifi - bliss) so wanted to use it while it's here and write this post. Yesterday I took myself on an epic trail run / hike / accidental rock climb / surprise boat trip. I bought a hydration pack very last minute on Friday night (thanks again Serchi!) before travelling to Cat Ba on Saturday morning, and now I'm back in the game! The trail running game, that is... Lucky as I don't know what I would have done yesterday without it, had I opted for my 'carry my phone and key in my hand' trick like I do on my runs near home.
So, my trail run began right here at the Eco Lodge, you can take a trail immediately off the back of the property, and follow it down to a road, then it's about 4km to the main gate of the National Park. I bought a ticket and told her I wanted to run the longest trail (the Viet Hai trail - 9km) and she said I had to sign my name down and come back and sign off again before 5pm. She seemed dubious that I could do it. She said it would take about 5+ hours to get there and that, no, I couldn't come back and retrace my steps (as I had been planning on doing) as I wouldn't make it back before 5pm and would have to get a bus back. In my head, I 'm thinking: of course I can! (It was only 8:30am at this point). I tried to tell her I would be running lots of it and not walking and she laughed. Ohwell, on with the run. I continued on, onto the trekking route, which had a total of zero other people and was located just beyond the gates and main entrance of the park, in fact you'd never know it was there. The run started off well, running through beautiful woodland trails (yes! I have missed trail running SO much!), and then started to head up into thicker vegetation and up various steps.
Not too much further though, the trail got wildly overgrown. I had brief fleeting thoughts re: is this a good idea? But I had started and wanted to at least get to the 'end' and then get this bus back that the ticket chick was adamant that I had to get. So I pushed on, wildly running with both arms up so that any spiders wouldn't go on my hair or in my eyes, and screaming occasionally at the giant, bright red crabs that would appear and scuttle across my path to get away. I had to keep running - anytime I stopped, the mosquitoes would swarm around me and big red ants would try to invade my shoes and munch on my ankles. The area got so dense and so dark, and so overgrown, I tried not to think about how this was potentially quite a dangerous position to be in. I literally couldn't see where I was putting my feet and at many a point I was wading through plants that were taller than me, just trusting that this was the right path and that all would be ok. (No photos were taken during this time - just wanted to get through there safely!) I didn't want to even think about the spider webs I was no doubt crashing through. It was the kind of scene that has been seen in many a sci-fi or horror movie and I was day-dreaming about how if it were I would be heading right for the nest of some giant arachnid or that huge, strong vines would soon entwine themselves around my legs and I'd be trapped there.
So, my trail run began right here at the Eco Lodge, you can take a trail immediately off the back of the property, and follow it down to a road, then it's about 4km to the main gate of the National Park. I bought a ticket and told her I wanted to run the longest trail (the Viet Hai trail - 9km) and she said I had to sign my name down and come back and sign off again before 5pm. She seemed dubious that I could do it. She said it would take about 5+ hours to get there and that, no, I couldn't come back and retrace my steps (as I had been planning on doing) as I wouldn't make it back before 5pm and would have to get a bus back. In my head, I 'm thinking: of course I can! (It was only 8:30am at this point). I tried to tell her I would be running lots of it and not walking and she laughed. Ohwell, on with the run. I continued on, onto the trekking route, which had a total of zero other people and was located just beyond the gates and main entrance of the park, in fact you'd never know it was there. The run started off well, running through beautiful woodland trails (yes! I have missed trail running SO much!), and then started to head up into thicker vegetation and up various steps.
Not too much further though, the trail got wildly overgrown. I had brief fleeting thoughts re: is this a good idea? But I had started and wanted to at least get to the 'end' and then get this bus back that the ticket chick was adamant that I had to get. So I pushed on, wildly running with both arms up so that any spiders wouldn't go on my hair or in my eyes, and screaming occasionally at the giant, bright red crabs that would appear and scuttle across my path to get away. I had to keep running - anytime I stopped, the mosquitoes would swarm around me and big red ants would try to invade my shoes and munch on my ankles. The area got so dense and so dark, and so overgrown, I tried not to think about how this was potentially quite a dangerous position to be in. I literally couldn't see where I was putting my feet and at many a point I was wading through plants that were taller than me, just trusting that this was the right path and that all would be ok. (No photos were taken during this time - just wanted to get through there safely!) I didn't want to even think about the spider webs I was no doubt crashing through. It was the kind of scene that has been seen in many a sci-fi or horror movie and I was day-dreaming about how if it were I would be heading right for the nest of some giant arachnid or that huge, strong vines would soon entwine themselves around my legs and I'd be trapped there.
Haha, this was fortunately not the case, but I did have to slow down and hike instead of run. In fact, I was doing some impromptu free climbing at some parts, such was the path that was up through and over the amazing rocks there (Cat Ba is made up of karst towers/formations). This is where, again, I got a bit scared. I'm not often scared of things, but I was scared here. The rocks were a combination of super slippery and razor sharp, and I was deep in there now, no turning back and could only push on (I wasn't going back to the spiders' lair, and at this point had made my mind up to see about the bus - I could always run the bus route back yes?). So I pushed on, but very slowly now. I fell a couple of times, but luckily got nothing worse than a cut finger to show for my efforts. Phew!
When I was nearing the 'end' (or so I thought) I finally saw other people! Hurrah! A couple of tourists with what looked like a local guide were coming up the other way, and told me that they had only just started so I assumed I was pretty much there at my destination. As I made my way out into the sunny open clearing, I ran along various paths (again, slightly overgrown) and realised that maybe I had gotten too cocky and that actually I didn't know which one to take, and that I was still very much in overgrown jungly vegetation, despite the sun streaming through patches of it. I panicked a little bit and ran this way and that, having visions of how people get lost in the bush back in Australia all the time, and that I only had limited water and supplies in my trusty camelback. I heard voices coming from one of the paths that I hadn't tried yet - it must be that way! Human life there for sure.
I followed this path and came across a group of Vietnamese women, a family out walking and collecting snails/crabs from the river just there. I explained my predicament and joy at having found them and tried to ask them the way to Viet Hai Village. They indicated they were going back that way and I joined them. Crisis averted. Obviously didn't run this next part, and slowed down to walk with them. Such a lovely family! Thank you Trang, and Lin, and to the rest of your family!!
When I was nearing the 'end' (or so I thought) I finally saw other people! Hurrah! A couple of tourists with what looked like a local guide were coming up the other way, and told me that they had only just started so I assumed I was pretty much there at my destination. As I made my way out into the sunny open clearing, I ran along various paths (again, slightly overgrown) and realised that maybe I had gotten too cocky and that actually I didn't know which one to take, and that I was still very much in overgrown jungly vegetation, despite the sun streaming through patches of it. I panicked a little bit and ran this way and that, having visions of how people get lost in the bush back in Australia all the time, and that I only had limited water and supplies in my trusty camelback. I heard voices coming from one of the paths that I hadn't tried yet - it must be that way! Human life there for sure.
I followed this path and came across a group of Vietnamese women, a family out walking and collecting snails/crabs from the river just there. I explained my predicament and joy at having found them and tried to ask them the way to Viet Hai Village. They indicated they were going back that way and I joined them. Crisis averted. Obviously didn't run this next part, and slowed down to walk with them. Such a lovely family! Thank you Trang, and Lin, and to the rest of your family!!
When I got to the village, I was told it was another 6km to the port (I hadn't realised there WAS a port?!) and then I would have to wait til the 1pm boat and get that to Ben Beo right at the South of the island and then I could make my way to Cat Ba and then back up to the national park. So, that's what I did. My run/walk had a long pause in the middle while I waited the hour ish for the boat at the 'end of the road' Port (i.e. there was no other option, it was either the sea or back the way I had come) and then took the hour long boat ride amidst other locals getting the ferry down to the South. This was unexpectedly awesome, due to the sheer natural beauty of Cat Ba and the surrounding karst formations and islands, and all the floating villages and fishermen's houses.
When I got to Ben Beo, I continued with the run, running the 3.5km up to Cat Ba, and then on up through the middle road through the island to get back to the ticket office to be able to sign my name off the sheet. From Cat Ba to the National Park it is another 15km (I think). A huge thank you to all the amazing people I met along the way, and all the thumbs up and 'good jobs' and 'hellos' and waves and offers of lifts that I received during this hot, exhausting part of the run (out in the sunshine and blue skies). I felt like I was running in my own marathon event (which I guess I was). Anyway, I got back to the ticket office, and signed my name (it was about 3:30 ish at this point). Stopped (again!) for yet more fuel and sugary drinks, and then set off for the final 4km home. Almost didn't make it home due to this beautiful beast blocking the path, the final hurdle, about 100m from the lodge:
Anyhoo, made it back, muddy, exhausted, and only slightly bloody (my little finger). I suppose I DID want a long run and a trail run combined. Working it out, it seems it was about 41-42km in total, but this was spread out over the day, with many many breaks (otherwise would be a definite personal WORST for a marathon distance for me, lol...)
When checking the tourist map I had bought later, I read this about the trail I had been on:
"Foreign tourist can (and indeed must) hire a guide to lead a 6-10 hour trek through this limestone labyrinth leads by Ao Ech (Frog Lake), in the middle of a freshwater swamp forest, with primary forest on the surrounding karst towers, and then trhough to Viet Hai village. The path can become dangerous and slippery when it rains."
Hmmm, labyrinth is right! And maybe I wouldn't have gone on a solo trail run here had I read that about the need for having a local guide. Did the trail in 3 hours ish and not the 6-10 that they suggested though, woot woot for trail running!!
Off to do more exploring today, but a lot more cruisily and am going to hire a bicycle and leisurely explore parts of the island that I didn't see yesterday, or maybe even Cat Ba town itself, as I seem to have bypassed that so far...
Here are a few more shots of Cat Ba, just because it is so damn beautiful!!!
When checking the tourist map I had bought later, I read this about the trail I had been on:
"Foreign tourist can (and indeed must) hire a guide to lead a 6-10 hour trek through this limestone labyrinth leads by Ao Ech (Frog Lake), in the middle of a freshwater swamp forest, with primary forest on the surrounding karst towers, and then trhough to Viet Hai village. The path can become dangerous and slippery when it rains."
Hmmm, labyrinth is right! And maybe I wouldn't have gone on a solo trail run here had I read that about the need for having a local guide. Did the trail in 3 hours ish and not the 6-10 that they suggested though, woot woot for trail running!!
Off to do more exploring today, but a lot more cruisily and am going to hire a bicycle and leisurely explore parts of the island that I didn't see yesterday, or maybe even Cat Ba town itself, as I seem to have bypassed that so far...
Here are a few more shots of Cat Ba, just because it is so damn beautiful!!!
In other news: for Hanoians - the Fermentation Workshop re: Make Your Own Sauerkraut (and heal your body and lose weight) is getting closer and closer! There are spots still available for both the Sunday and the Monday sessions, so please send me an email for more information or to reserve your space: info@lousweight.com.au.
And, my Jump Into June 30 Day Challenge is soon to be officially released - you'll be able to sign up soon! Check my website in a few days' time: www.lousweight.com.au.
Ok, before this wifi drops out again: have a wonderful week one and all!
And, my Jump Into June 30 Day Challenge is soon to be officially released - you'll be able to sign up soon! Check my website in a few days' time: www.lousweight.com.au.
Ok, before this wifi drops out again: have a wonderful week one and all!
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